Tag Archives: protien

Quincy Quarries

Standard

Quincy Quarries is a unique crag full of awesome graffiti art, big walls and persistent routes.  It is located south of Boston and isn’t a far dive from Providence. The first time I went was on a hot summer day with my friend Alex. The temperature was reaching the mid 90’s and the the crag was pretty much open with hardly and trees. The sun shines right over the crag and trying to find shade wasn’t that easy. With that being said it was still a great day. When you look up photo’s of the crag online it doesn’t seem as big as it is in person. When I first arrived I was pretty over whelmed with how big the walls were and how great the graffiti art was. The graffiti covered every wall in the crag which made it very eye catching and made for some awesome photos. However, the graffiti made it harder to climb since it was all so slippery making it impossible to smear and place your feet. Most of the graffiti was towards the bottom so once you climbed past it and go higher the wall became easier to climb. Most of the routes there are on top rope but there are a few trad and sport routes. We started out on a basic 5.8 route and ended on a 5.10 route. Alex even practiced some trad on the way up one wall. Over all the I thought the crag was pretty awesome. The walls were great, the routs were great and it wasn’t that far of a drive. I would love to go back when the weather is cooler. I feel like that was the only thing holding me back from climbing harder. If you’re new to climbing in RI/MA/CT or just looking for a crag to climb in thats not a far drive I would suggest Quincy. There’s a lot of fun routes there and you can be there all day. The one thing that I didn’t like about it was all of the litter and broken glass making it impossible to walk barefoot. I wore sandals and woke up the next morning with a big chunk of glass coming out of my foot! I almost considered getting a tetanus shot. A lot of young people go there at night to party and just leave all their trash there. I know the Rock Spot gym I belong to has certain days where they go clean the crag and climb but I feel like people should take responsibly and clean up after themselves. Leaving trash behind isn’t cool and it disgusted me. Other than that I can’t wait to go back and climb.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Advertisements

Advice On Lead Climbing

Standard

So one of the many things I did this summer was learn how to lead climb properly. My good friend Alex and I decided that since we both do a lot of out door climbing it would be a good idea to become officially lead certified. That means that we had to take three classes at the gym and then finally a test. The class was very informative and the test was pretty easy to pass as long as you stay cool and take it slow. The problem that I ran into while just starting to lead was that you can no longer climb the grades you once were able to on top rope. On top rope you only have to worry about going up, if you fall, your belayer will catch you. While leading you have to worry about finding a good position, holding it, clipping in and taking big falls. You don’t realized how tiring it is until your hanging in an uncomfortable position trying to clip in with one hand. Then if your arms or legs give out and you don’t get the rope in the clip your taking a possible 15 foot fall. If you do get the clip and you fall you will only fall half of that. It can get pretty scary and when you first start out pump comes on quick while trying to hold your position to clip. That’s why when you first start you might get set back a few grades. On top rope, or auto belay in the gym I can climb usually anything between 5.10 and 5.12 right off the couch. When I first started lead climbing I struggled with 5.7’s and 5.8’s. I  think now I’m comfortable leading at 5.9 but thinking about doing a 5.10 or higher scares me. It will take some more practice until I can get to where I am on top rope. But I know as long as I keep practicing and pushing myself it will happen. I may even attempt to lead a 5.11 in the gym next time I go with Alex to belay me. I probably won’t make it but you never know unless you try, you’ll never get better or learn to climb higher grades unless you attempt them. When I first started leading I never once thought that it was going to set me back a few grades. I thought that because I could climb a 5.11 on top rope then I could on lead. I didn’t realize I was wrong until the first lead class.

Screen Shot 2016-09-05 at 2.08.38 PMBelaying is  a bit different too since it pretty much backwards. Instead of taking slack you’re feeding the rope through giving the slack to the climber. It took a few classes to actually get used to it. It was pretty weird to me and it does feel uncomfortable and first. There is a lot to keep in mind as the belayer like how much slack to give, when to take it, where to stand and when to take a soft or a hard catch. But practice makes perfect and even after I passed the test I still feel like I am always learning something new about it. There is just so much beta to go around that no matter what type of climbing you are doing you are always learning something new about the sport. I guess you can say it always keeps you on your toes. I would recommend learning how to lead if you plan on doing a lot of outdoor climbing and if you take climbing seriously. If you are only going to climb in the gym for fun and maybe set up a top rope a few times a year then it’s not something you need to learn how to do right away. Learning does take time and I have spent more times in the gym during the week then I ever have in the past while learning how to lead so it does become time consuming. My advice would be if you’re going to do it take your time, study and don’t get frustrated. It will come as long as you keep going.

The Reason I Climb

Standard

All through out my climbing career people have asked me what made me start climbing and why do I do it. I’m sure you’re reading this now thinking the same thing. The half assed answer I normally give people is “well I came to the gym once and really feel in love with the sport”. Well that answer isn’t wrong but it’s also not true. The real reason is a bit longer of a story that I haven’t really told until now. The reason I never shared with people was so dark and I didn’t want to re-live the past. I wasn’t okay with the past because of how harsh it was. I was scared by it. It wasn’t until recently that I have come to terms with the past and am somewhat okay with sharing it with others. Maybe some people will learn from my story.

It all started about three years ago. I was dating a guy named Jeff and we had nothing to do on a Friday night. A friend of mine invited us to go to the local rock gym with her and her boyfriend and we agreed to go. It was our first time being there and we had a blast. Since that day I continued to go either with friends or alone. One night I was there with a friend and I had just came off a wall. Tired, I threw myself on the ground and I thought to myself “wow, I really love this place and everything about climbing”. That’s when it became more than a hobby to me, it became a passion.

About a year later Jeff had bought a house for us and I moved in. I continued to climb at the gym and he even came with me every now and again. We even got belay certified. However, there was a slight problem, climbing with him wasn’t a lot of fun. Since I moved in with him he became a completely different person. He became controlling, possessive, emotionally and physically abusive. He picked and chose when I could go to bed, come home and even eat (which only made me binge eat when I wasn’t with him). He was insecure and in the gym he was a sore loser. If he or I wasn’t climbing harder than the person next to us he would throw a hissy fit and drag me out of the gym with him. I would then get screamed at because I wasn’t climbing like them and I was weak. I’m a very laid back, down to earth person and to me that wasn’t cool. You don’t do that in the gym, it’s not a competition with other people, it’s all about conquering yourself, not others and people took notice of his poor behavior. He was 29 years old and the time but acted like he was 12.

I told Jeff that if he was going to continue to act like that than I didn’t want him to climb with me anymore. He had a chance to fix his attitude and he chose not to. The emotional and physical abuse didn’t end and I still don’t want to go too much into detail with it. I was a vegetarian for 12 years at the time and he had gone as far as telling me that if I didn’t start eating meat he would leave me. So like an idiot I started eating meat even though I didn’t want to. At first eating meat made me sick but I had to deal with it. I guess that shows how dedicated I could be. It was only a matter of time until I feel into a deep depression and started to lose myself and every thing that I was. I was in a dark place I didn’t think I could ever get out of. I wasn’t aloud to hang out with other people and have fun. There were a few friends I could see but not too many. The only place I could go without being accused of cheating was the rock gym because he somewhat understood my passion.

Going to the rock gym was the only place I could go that he was okay with. Climbing at the gym pulled me from the dark place and made me happy. It was the happiest I had been in a while when I was there. I would forget all about the negativity in my life and it was just me, the wall and some of the great people who were there. I was accused of cheating a few times but I just ignored it. Anyone who knows me knows that I’m not a cheater. I would never hurt someone the way I was hurt in the past and I wouldn’t wish that emotional torture on anyone. Apparently he was too insecure to get that. I lived with Jeff for about 7 months until July of 2015. We had got into a heated argument because he wouldn’t come out to dinner with some of our friends (he was invited and said he would go a week before). He told me he didn’t want me to go either and his reason was that he wanted to stay in and play video games. I told him I was going regardless. As I was walking out the door he called me a “fat fucking bitch”. I will never forget that. Never in my life has anyone said anything so rude to me and it was coming from the person I “loved”.  I cried all that night when I was out because I just couldn’t believe it. If you care about someone you don’t say that. He obviously didn’t care he was just obsessive and that’s when I knew I had to leave. My mother and I had talked about it for months before but that was the last straw.

I moved back home but when I moved back home I realized that I was broken. I had been abused, belittled and made to feel as if I didn’t matter for over a year and it took it’s toll on me. I wasn’t me anymore, I was an empty shell of myself with low self esteem. I weighed around 120 pounds before I moved in with Jeff and I had weighed close to 140 when I left him. That wasn’t okay.  Climbing was all I had left and I knew it was going to take time and a lot of work to feel like myself again. That summer after we broke up was when I started taking climbing seriously and getting into a lot of outdoor climbing and bouldering. I started eating healthy again and realized how depression made me binge eat when Jeff wasn’t around to tell me not too. It was a abad idea but depression makes you do crazy things. I lost the 20 pounds that I gained ( I have to thank Herablife for that one) and spent more time in the gym. Even with a broken thumb I watched my climbing grades grow. Climbing helped me find myself when I didn’t think I ever would and made me happy again. I regained my self esteem and am finally very happy with myself. I even recently earned a sponsorship with Onsight Gear which made me ecstatic. Climbing was there for me when no one else and saved me from the darkest place. I have grown extremely fond of the sport and what it has done for me and that is why I climb and will continue to climb. A year ago I would never have thought that I would accomplish what I have. I climb because I want to show people that anything is possible as long as you are happy and will powered. I have had zero training from anybody and am completely self dependent.  You just need to trust in yourself.

Since last July I haven’t dated anyone since. I really wanted to focus on bettering myself and making myself happy again. I literally took me almost a year but I think I have succeeded. You can’t make someone happy unless you are totally happy with yourself first. I would say I’m ready to date again but it’s tough finding someone I click with. Since everything I have been through I also want to take things slow and keep my guard up but I am willing to take it down. I’m really shy and usually don’t approach guys, I wait for them to approach me so it may be while but I’m also not going to search. When the time is ready then I guess I’ll know but in the mean time, climb on!

 

Sick

Standard

This weekend has sucked. I’ve pretty much been in bed since yesterday morning sick. Iv’e been suffering from a slight cold with a nasty cough. It makes it even worse that I have asthma. I really hate sitting in bed because I feel like a complete bum. I got up and went for a run yesterday afternoon but couldn’t stop coughing.  That run turned into a 1 mile job because I started to get dizzy and thought it’d be best to get home. After relaxing for a bit I then went outside to go shoot my bow and arrow since it requires little effort to shoot. But even then I started to get dizzy and shooting a bow while dizzy is not the best thing to do.

So since the little episode I have been taking it easy and lounging around trying to get better. I really wanted to go climb today but decided that it’s best I didn’t. I’m still coughing a lot and I really don’t want to get my germs1502_bestdefense_orangeboost_new_us all over the holds at the gym. The last thing I need it to get other people sick. Hopefully I’ll be back at it Tuesday but for now I’ve been boosting up on these Herbalife Immune boosters. Getting all my vitamins and minerals is essential for getting better.

10lbs Down!

Standard

So Iv’e gone to the rock gym a few times since my last post and I feel as if every time I go I can feel myself improving in some way. Tuesday I signed up for an adult technique class. Iv’e been climbing for a while now and I climb 5.9-5.11 so it’s not like I’m at a beginner level but I signed up for a few reasons.  One, being that the grip in my left hand since I broke my thumb is not as strong as it used to be and two, because no matter how good at something you are you can always learn things from other people.  There are only two other people in my class, a couple that seemed to be beginners. I was nervous that they were going to hold me back at first but they’re not at all and I actually like having them around. In the class I was told that I had to keep working on my pinches to strengthen my thumb which is hard because I have been avoiding them because I lost my strength. Tonight I am going back with my niece and tomorrow I may be going there twice with my friend and possibly with my brother later and I plan on doing a lot of pinch exercises. My goal is to have somewhat of strength back by Tuesday’s next class.

IMG_1515

Here I am after the adult technique class. I am a chalk warrior. 

In other good news, I am very proud to say that I have successfully lost 10lbs since December 1st. My goal is to lose 10 more pounds from here which shouldn’t be too difficult. My friend took a photo of me climbing a 5.10 the other day and I was able to notice that I lost weight in my photo. It felt pretty good.  I also have been getting complimented on it so much. It feels awesome when people start telling you that they noticed you lost weight.

IMG_1521

I come from a very Italian family (a little too Italian if you ask me) and I eat a lot of pasta. I eat pasta 1-3 times a week. People always ask me how I managed to lose the weight and still eat pasta. The answer is simple. I eat a very healthy breakfast and lunch and eat at least 100grams of protein a day. I have a Herbalife shake for breakfast and one for lunch and a normal healthy meal for dinner or sometimes pasta. I eat plain, low-fat greek yogurt as a snack or a protein bar, and I work out A LOT. At least an hour a day  either at the rock gym or at home. I also portion my pasta when I do have it and I usually make my pasta from scratch which has less stuff in it then store bought boxed pasta. The truth is if you take care of your body and work out and eat right you can get away with eating pasta a few times a week and still lose weight.

Warming Up

Standard
Warming Up

When it comes to climbing big walls at the gym I warm up by doing simple arm exercises and dead hangs. However, I don’t over work myself because I don’t want to be too beat to climb.  When climbing a big wall problem such as a 5.10/5.11 I almost never warm up by climbing a lower grade. My muscles would just becomes too sore to do it. So what I usually do is start off with the wall that is a high grade, and gives me the most problem, and finish it (at least that’s what the goal is). I feel that when big wall climbing your muscles have to be fresh and unworked out to get the best results. When I’m about ready to wrap up my workout I will down climb to a lower grade just to keep climbing and build up my endurance until I can’t climb anymore.

When it comes to bouldering I do the opposite. I always start off with a lower grade like a V0 or V1 that focusses on a lot of technique. Not only does this warm me up for higher grades, it helps me build up technique.  The thing about bouldering is that you climb a little bit then take as long as a break as needed. When climbing a big wall you climb a long ways and can only take a short break WHEN you find a good hold to balance on (this is why endurance is important to have for big walls). Here I am bouldering on a v1 or v2, I can’t remember. This is just a warm up but requires technique within the movement and also requires good balance. Since there is a small swing needed, balance is important to have. Losing control of a swing can throw off the whole climb. Finding a route like this is a good warm up and a good way to train your body.

 

Staying Fit At Home 

Standard
Staying Fit At Home 

So tomorrow is the day that I attempt to climb my first crack at the gym. I don’t know why but I’m a little nervous. I know I shouldn’t be because it’s in a gym and it’s my first time. I think it’s more of the fact that I don’t know how to fail. If I ever can’t acomplish a rout it eats away at me until I finish it. And I always do finish it with some practice. I guess I will just have to see if I can acomplish myself tomorrow. After all, the saying is true, “it’s not the wall we conquer but ourselves”.

Today was quit the busy day for me so I didn’t get a chance to go to the gym so I had to work out at home. Today I focused mainly on lower body.

Here is the aquipment I use a home:

 

Rock rings, a weighted vest, wrist/ankle weights, standard weights and a kettle bell. I also have some yoga supplies and a few resistance straps not photographed.

With the rock rings I do different pull ups, dead hangs and ab exercises with the weighted vest on. I also do sit ups and push ups with the weighted vest on and will even go for a quick jog while wearing it. When doing ab work outs at home I like to get 5-7 different floor ab exercises and do each one for a minute each. I will sometimes repeat this depending on what else I am doing or trying to focus on.

 

After exercising I will often have a protein shake or a meal containing high protein. I am big into Herbalife and swear by their products. I have two protein shakes a day, a high protein snack and a healthy meal. Tonight I made grilled chicken and it was delicious!

 

I used the Herbalife chicken soup mix to make a sauce containing 16grams of protein. Instead of adding a cup of water to the soup mix I added half of a cup to make it a thick and creamy sauce.  I then topped it off with fresh chives and a sprinkle of pepper and paprika. It was a good, high protein meal, and made me feel good after a little at home work out!